Uganda’s President Yoweri Museveni declared in August that he intended to ban the import of used clothing, stating that the items came “from dead people.” This move has sent ripples through the vibrant secondhand clothing market in the country, which has long been a popular choice for both rich and poor consumers looking for affordable yet quality-made clothes.
These secondhand clothes, often discarded by Europeans and Americans, are shipped to African countries through middlemen. It’s a thriving multimillion-dollar business, with approximately two-thirds of people in seven East African countries having purchased at least some of their clothes from the secondhand clothing market, according to a 2017 study by the U.S. Agency for International Development.
While President Museveni’s order has not been enforced yet, it has created uncertainty and concerns among traders who sell used clothes in markets, roadside stands, and shops across the country. The ban, if implemented, could have devastating effects on their livelihoods. Used clothing is known for its affordability, with prices dropping further as new shipments arrive, making it a popular choice for many.
The Green Shops, a chain specializing in used clothes, is one such place where consumers seek budget-friendly options. Apparel reseller Glen Kalungi explained his shopping strategy, saying, “I am a thrift shopper. I usually come to these Green Shops to check out clothes because they have the best prices around town.” The chain, which is partly owned by Europeans, receives clothes from suppliers worldwide, including China and Germany, and ensures the items are adequately inspected and fumigated before being shipped to Uganda.
The ban on used clothing is not universally supported. The Kampala City Traders Association (KACITA) opposes a firm ban on used apparel and recommends a phased embargo that would allow local clothing producers to build capacity to meet demand.
Winfred Arinaitwe, a Ugandan apparel maker, acknowledges that the quality of locally made fabric can be inferior, leading many people to prefer used clothing because it is known for its durability.
In Owino Market, where used clothing vendors are abundant, a ban on these items is inconceivable to many, including Abdulrashid Ssuuna, who relies on selling used jeans to earn a livelihood. Ssuuna believes that a government ban would effectively drive traders like him out of business and impede their ability to provide for their families.
The used clothing market in Uganda is highly competitive, with traders actively vying for the attention of potential customers. Tadeo Walusimbi, a seasoned used-clothes trader, expressed his belief that a government ban would not only be detrimental to his business but also to many others who depend on the trade for their income.
Uganda’s consideration of the ban on imported secondhand clothing highlights a complex issue with economic, environmental, and social dimensions. It raises questions about the impact on local traders, the quality of domestic textiles, and the availability of affordable clothing options for the population. The outcome of this debate will have far-reaching implications for the country’s economy and its citizens’ access to clothing.